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MMM, MMM, GOOD

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If you didn’t know the location of The Good Food Company, you could easily drive right past it. Once guests are in the door, though, it seems that executive chef Millard Cooley has a handle on what it takes to keep them coming back.

The dining room is warm and inviting, with dark brown hues and eye-catching lighting fixtures. It’s effortlessly elegant, with quirky touches that keep the ambiance interesting, like a pillar adorned with ceramic sculptures of animal heads.

Our group was led to a four-top table in the center of the room. A server soon arrived and explained how meals work at The Good Food Company: dinners are served as three-course meals, and we were instructed to place our order for an appetizer and entrée at the same time. In between, we could expect a complimentary salad.

We started the meal with the mezzo platter. A wood block piled high with crostinis, assorted cheeses, olive and mushroom tapenade, olives and cured meats was delivered to our table fairly quickly. We were told that the cheeses and meats change constantly; our platter came with a delicious assortment of asiago and parmesan cheeses, as well as prosciutto and dill-rubbed pork loin.

As we finished the platter, our complimentary salads arrived. Each plate held a short stack of spinach leaves, topped with slices of cucumber and a refreshing citrus vinaigrette. In the meantime, a small bowl of soup was served to one of the other diners. It was lukewarm; our server quickly returned the bowl to the kitchen. Moments later, chef Cooley appeared at the table, bearing a suitably hot bowl and an apology for the inconvenience—a gesture that is always appreciated. Our entrées arrived next.

I ordered the gold maple duck with roasted potatoes, fresh vegetables and blueberry gastrique. The duck breast arrived stacked above the potato slices, with the rich dark berry sauce swirled around the entrée. It was delicious; the breast was perfectly seared on both sides, and the salty and savory crust of the meat blended beautifully with the sweet blueberry sauce. My guest ordered the chicken tajine, and her entrée presentation was equally impressive. When the lid of the ceramic tajine was lifted, the scent of the chicken, olives and mushrooms wafted across the table. The chicken was tender and juicy, and the olives and mushrooms were dense and flavorful.

We passed on dessert, and chose instead to linger over the last few bites of our meals. When good food is on the table, there’s no need to rush.

The Good Food Company
13475 Atlantic Blvd.,
Intracoastal West; 329-2407,
thegoodfoodcompany.com